An intoxicating mix of sophistication and moderation, Seville gradually reels you into its grasp. It doesn't blow you away with architecture like Barcelona; it doesn't offer a relaxing stroll along the beach like Valencia. It keeps you at arms length and seduces you enough to make you want more and more. Its exceptional produce, quiet plazas, and relaxed vibes do the talking and will entice you enough to never stop exploring the capital of Andalucía.
Seville's currency is the Euro (€). €1 = £0.83 / $1.10 (as of 2022).
Top 5 things to see
The heartbeat of the city, the Roman Catholic cathedral is the largest Gothic church in the world, and the fourth-largest church in the world. Reaching 105m high, it was completed nearly 500 years ago its architecture is a mix of Moorish and Gothic styles due to the centuries of invasions in the region.
There's always a fantastic buzz around the area, especially on Calle Mateos Gago, a must-visit street for tapas bars. West of the cathedral is Cabildo Square, a secret haven of pretty ceramic shops, bright white and orange architecture, and a water fountain.
Tickets for Seville Cathedral start from €11. Buy your tickets online (link below).
Once the "outsider neighbourhood" of Seville, Triana is a bustling neighbourhood of independent ceramic shops, flamenco halls and tapas bars around every corner. Its delightful streets were once the home to the Roma community, which explains the heavy influence of ceramic and flamenco. Along the river, you'll be blessed with views of the city. Be sure to visit the Mercado de Triana, and the Ceramica Triana for the best souvenirs of Andalucía.
Plaza de España
The city is blessed with beautiful squares, but none more so than Plaza de España. It's a haven of gardens, water features and architecture, all arcing the Instituto Geografico Nacional, along with the moat (which you can boat on for 6€).
It is eye-watering opulence at every turn: the blue and white tiled bannisters and columns along the water; the deep-creamed columns in the open-walled hallway; and the magical views of the square from the top. Beware of the 'influencers' posing around every corner. Oh, and beware of the horse-drawn carriages too.
If there is one place to visit in Seville, this is it.
Walk the Jewish Quarter
The Santa Cruz neighbourhood, also known as the Jewish Quarter, might well be a district you stumble upon. It's a myriad of side streets and ceramic shops and bars, culminating towards a serene square of orange trees, before you're drawn to more cobbled streets to yet another square.
You could spend hours and hours in the Jewish Quarter - each square and street and building with its own unique past. Sit under an orange tree with a picnic and enjoy the surroundings. Perfect!
Royal Alcázar of Seville
The jewel of Seville, the Royal Alcázar is a fascinating mix of Christian and Mudéjar architecture. There has been a fort on this site since 913 and has undergone development over the centuries. It is a photographer and architect-lovers paradise, but be wary of the queues- book tickets online well in advance.
Tickets start at €14.50.
Seville City Passes
Skip-the-queue entry to a number of famous attractions across the city. Public transport also included.
24 hours = €59.
Skip-the-queue entry to Royal Alcázar and the Cathedral, along with an audio guide of Seville.
1 day = €36.
Where to eat and drink
Seville is a gold mine for tapas and Spanish produce. Many claim it to be the best city for tapas with over 3,000 bars and restaurants to choose from. The food is simple, the ingredients are stunning, and the atmosphere is relaxed, basking in the glorious sunshine.
La Centuria is one of the best spots in the city for churros and hot chocolate (how the locals start their day). These churros are huge, thick and chewy, perfect for dunking in the serving chocolate. Don't be put off by its location in front of the tourist-heavy Setas - this is a really good churreria!
Kukuchurro, nearby the Setas, is another alternative for churros to take-away by the bucket.
Mercado de Triana, south of the river, is an authentic local's market selling wonderful fresh produce. The markets also extend to seating areas too, making for a perfect breakfast.
La Cacharrería is a hip and intimate cafe serving fabulous brunches, coffee and breakfasts.
Mercado de Triana, mentioned above, is the perfect place to pick up produce and put together a picnic of ham, cheese and bread to take to the nearby river.
Bodega Santa Cruz by the Cathedral serves excellent rustic, light sandwiches - called montaditos - served at a rapid place. In the summer heat, you don't want to feast too much.
Bodega Mateo Ruiz, north of the Setas (the largest wooden structure in the world that you can climb), serves 1€ wine from barrels stacked behind the bar, along with good-quality tapas dishes.
For dinner & drinks
Bar La Moderna serves fantastic veggie food on a wrap-around terrace on a bustling street; its spinach and chick peas were sensational.
Taberna Belmonte is a pretty spot that serves classic tapas dishes with a twist.
Restaurante Mateos is not bad for food, but its views of the Cathedral at night are special.
Seville has a monumental amount of tapas bars, it will overwhelm you. A beer will cost €2-3 and you shouldn't pay any more than €2.50.
Tipping isn't required, but you can add an extra euro to your bill if the service was particularly good.
The centre of Seville is the safest city we've visited in Europe. It's well-lit and it's tapas culture, going on late into the evening every night, means there are always people (men and women) on the streets having fun.
For female solo travellers, we saw plenty of sevillanas (women from Seville) on their own which showed a confidence to travel. We spoke to plenty of locals who also said the same of the safety too. As always though, be careful in crowds for scams and pickpockets.
Two Passports Top Tip: Don't be intimated by the tapas bars!
As touristic as Seville is, it feels like a city still catering for the locals. Even by the cathedral and the attractions, there are fantastic bars, cafes and restaurants. Just keep your eye out for the usual rule - if it's in English or if there are pictures on the menu, walk away!
When to Go
Low Season: December to February
Chances of rain but it's not the sunniest city in Europe for nothing; expect good weather! Christmas markets are on so it can be busy. February is a good time to visit due to low crowds and prices.
Shoulder Season: March to May, September to November
Weather is perfect to stroll the city, though crowds do increase and attractions and hotels get busier, so book in advance.
High Season: June to August
Very, VERY hot. Uncomfortably hot. The locals leave the city, and football games are played close to midnight - that's how hot it gets. Try to avoid these months if you can, as Seville becomes a hotspot (literally) for holiday makers. Hospitality and attractions are busy busy busy.
How to Get There
Seville Airport (SVQ)
A 30-minute drive from the city centre, SVQ is most probably where you're flying into, although it is mainly focuses on European destinations (and North Africa). It's clean and easy to navigate, but does't cater well for food and drink options.
Apart from an expensive taxi, the EA Bus - a big yellow bus that comes along every 15 minutes - is the only way into the city. Comes out of airport and turn right and you'll see signs for it. It drops you into multiple spots throughout the city. €4/6 for single/return.
Jerez de la Frontera (XRY)
A much smaller airport in Jerez de la Frontera, south of Seville. If you have a chance to fly in or out of Jerez and spend a night or two here as part of your journey, I would 100% recommend it. It's said to be the true birthplace of flamenco and sherry and is packed with history and great vibes.
XRY only has select routes in Europe. However, it does have a train station with direct routes into Jerez (10 minutes) and Seville (60 minutes), making it easy access.
Malaga Airport (AGP)
Yes this is flying into a different city, but AGP has many more routes than SVQ and does provide another option if you wanted to visit either of the cities as part of your trip. To get to Seville:
By train from AGP
If you're lucky, you can catch the direct train from either of the cities costing €25 one-way, taking nearly 3 hours. Otherwise, you will have to change in Cordoba and your route will be double the price and time.
By coach from AGP - Two Passports Recommends!
You'll have to travel into Malaga city centre from AGP first (either by the cheap and fast train or bus networks), then get one of the 5 coaches that depart to Seville. They cost approx €25 one-way and take only 2h30m.
Travelling by train
The train network in Spain is very good. Punctual, clean, bright and lots of space for luggage and electronics at your seat. The stations are vast spaces and a cool haven from the heat outside.
Seville has two train stations, Santa Justa and San Bernardo. Santa Justa is the larger, but has poor connections to and from the city centre, so you'll either have to walk or get a bus. Santa Justa is one of the stope on the EA Bus' route from the airport. However, San Bernardo has both a metro and a tram stop, so if you are travelling into the city via train, try and stop at San Bernardo!
Travelling in the city
Seville is walkable and flat, so it's easy on the feet. There is have a tram network and a one-line metro service too that you can use if you must, but it doesn't has the most convenient stops. But it is cheap to use; you can buy your tickets at the stops easily.